The first component of any haircutting technique is the tool. Whether using straight shears (scissors), chunking shears, blending shears, or a razor, the goal is to cut hair. Each tool has a specific result that can often be duplicated by another tool, but the understanding of how to hold, angle, and move the tool is the foundation of all hair cutting. Some techniques that we employ are straight cutting, point cutting, slithering, slashing, sliding, and efflorage. Not all techniques are appropriate for all hair types or hairstyles. We carefully match the technique to the client’s hair type and the style desired.
Our Training Program
Education is an integral part of our workday. We believe that the sharing of knowledge makes us all better. We start with a 28-month Basic Training Program for our Apprentices and continue with monthly or bimonthly in salon Advanced Training Classes for our entire staff. We also send members of our staff to weekend and weeklong training seminars at advanced training academies throughout the world.
Cutting wet hair is the standard technique of the hair industry. Wet hair allows for precise cuts and control of different hair textures. We also prefer to only razor cut on wet hair to minimize damage and split ends and will use various shear techniques, though not all, for the same reasons. The disadvantage is that wet hair does not behave in the same manner as dry hair, and natural texture may change the shape of the cut as it dries. Wet cutting is the first component of our Basic Training Program.
(Not recommended for every client) Dry cutting allows the stylist to see the result while working and gives a creative stylist the ability to sculpt. It is a perfect technique for naturally straight hair. The disadvantage is that natural texture is not considered. The client leaves the salon with straight hair, and clients with curly hair may have an oddly shaped result when they wear their hair curly. Also, clients with fine hair often experience damage after repeated dry cuts. We recommend alternating dry and wet cutting for clients that are prone to damage. We teach this method as an advanced technique in our Apprentice Training Program.
Wet into Dry Cutting
In many respects, this is the best of both worlds. The structure of the cut is done wet giving a solid foundation to the cut followed by dry detailing. It also gives many more styling options. We teach this method throughout our training program.
(Not recommended for every client) The razor has come in and out of fashion over the years and is now the industry’s trendiest tool. The highly textured looks seen in fashion are most efficiently made with the razor. It is easy to use but difficult to master. Many clients fear it because it can remove a great deal of hair in a few strokes. This is also the reason stylists love it. The same results may be achieved with shears but with greater effort. We only razor on wet hair and tend not to razor very fine or damaged hair to avoid additional damage. We teach this method as part of our Advanced Training.
We tend not to use clippers very often because the surface of clippered hair is too uniform. It is a tool that we respect but prefer the results from using shear over comb. Some men’s haircuts require the use of the clipper. We teach this method as part of our Basic Training Program.
Color techniques are as varied as the spectrum of colors we can achieve. Most of our staff are trained in both color and cut, but we have a few that specialize. Still, our specialists understand the integral connection between cut and color. We do not have enough space here to describe all of the different color techniques we use, so let’s just say that they include but are not limited to foil highlights, single process, double process, paneling, slicing, weaving, and baliage. Various methods are taught throughout our Training Program. We also have Advanced Classes on a regular basis to stay current.
Hair Color Terms Defined
An all over color, usually applied just at the root area. It may also be a root to end application, but there is typically an additional charge because a great deal more color is used.
Some colors, usually blondes, require a toner to achieve the desired color, especially after lightening.
This is a broad term that covers the use of multiple colors or the selective coloring of hair. Foils, caps, and baliage (color painted directly on the hair) are among the techniques covered by this term. The most common is the foil highlight.